EST Steaks @ The Intermark

KL's latest steakhouse, EST, marks The BIG Group's unmistakable foray into fine dining; everything from the food and prices to the service and setting here strives to be taken seriously.

This small, sealed space beside Estate features barely 10 tables. It'll probably be polarizing _ some might call it intimately elegant; others may consider it intimidatingly elitist.

Meals here begin with what could become EST's famous complimentary signature starter _ empanadas _ hot, buttery and flaky, filled with ricotta cheese and broccoli.

The selection of steaks is compact but commendable. We sprang for two Australian rib-eyes, starting with this Ralph Meat Company grass-fed, 21-day-aged slab of succulence, satisfyingly bold in flavor (RM136++ for 310 grams).

Greg Norman rib-eye, marble score 5, 30-day aged (RM228++ for 325 grams). Teething troubles might be evident; our steaks came out medium instead of medium-rare, but the second time around, EST's maitre d' had no hesitation returning it to the kitchen and bringing us bloodier beef.

Other bovine beauties here include bone-in AACO Tomahawk Wagyu that could cost many hundreds of ringgit, but wine lovers will be relieved to hear that EST's list is wide and well-priced. A simple bottle of Beringer Stone Cellars Merlot costs a fair RM99++.

Smoke Boulavardier (RM58++; maker's mark, campari, martini rosso, lagavulin 16-years, lemon) and Gentleman's Cobbler (RM58++; hendricks, tio pepe, pineapple, lemon, orange, sugar).

Dessert drinks: Rum and Port Flip (angostura 1919, lbv port, egg yolk, sugar, nutmeg powder) and Tiramisu (ron zacapa 23, patron xo cafe, espresso, mascarpone cheese, chocolate sauce).

Beef-haters, take note: EST also serves everything from crab salads to scallop ceviches, barbecued calamari to beech wood-smoked salmon.

Meats here are seem to be char-grilled Latin American "asado" style on open fires for a smoky flavor. Servers offer a choice of sauces including chimichurri, horseradish and more.

EST @ The Intermark
Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2163-5731