Tatsu

Now that Nikko Hotel has become the InterContinental, its Japanese outlet, Benkay, has also experienced a name change, turning into Tatsu.

Not much else is different so far; the restaurant will be refurbished soon, but its menu remains reassuringly wide-ranging. This mix of mascarpone with bonito is a masterstroke, with the soft, smooth cheese blending unexpectedly well with the slimy, salty fish.

Grilled cod fish teriyaki, sandwiched with foie gras. Sounds heavenly on paper, but a preparation like this flops irredeemably when the liver is overcooked to the brink of being all dried out.

Chef's Special Maki, featuring eel, soft-shell crab & avocado with almond sauce. Delicious, but that's no surprise, considering the choice of components.

Omelet with mentaiko. Egg-lovers should be pleased with this recipe's luscious texture, though some might say its subtle flavors border on bland.

Shirayuki sake. Booze is dauntingly pricey here.

Tatsu,

InterContinental Hotel,

Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.