Morganfield's

Calling itself the "Home of Sticky Bones," Morganfield's aims to please everyone who has ever lamented that Tony Roma's remains pork-free in Malaysia.

The main attraction: hickory wood-smoked pork ribs. This version basted with BBQ sauce is the signature selection _ one fine meaty mess that made us lick our lips & fingers. The best in town? Probably not, but it'll still give a place like Vintry a run for its money.

Another rib recipe: a Tuscan-inspired variety, oven-roasted with spicy tomato sauce & served with red-skin mashed potatoes. Tender and hearty, though much of the flavor in Morganfield's ribs emanate from the sauces, not the flesh. Prices: half a slab costs around RM40, while a full one is north of RM70 once the service charge & government tax kick in.

Pork burgers also abound, with no fewer than five types. We chose this one topped with blackened cheese & sauteed onions, which proved more than worthwhile. The patty was fascinating; it featured a surprisingly delicate flavor & an almost melt-in-the-mouth mushiness that set it apart from other pork burgers in KL.

Caesar salad, also a piggy pleasure, with bacon bits as a savory substitute for smoked chicken. Housekeeping notes: Morganfield's is spacious enough that a Saturday night crowd easily fit inside without knocking elbows. Also, the service crew deserves praise for its smooth efficiency.

Of course, pork can't hog the whole menu. The Pacific Blue Marlin with Merlot garlic butter sounded tempting, but it turned out terrible _ shockingly drier and chewier than a tough steak (no exaggeration). Accompanied by an irredeemable C-grade version of pilaf rice.

Too much food for two, but we persevered. The sirloin steak was comparatively better, but nevertheless several notches below succulent. The verdict: for now, it seems like pork is the only food to pursue at Morganfield's.

An apple a day keep the doctor away: Apple Strawberry Mojito & Appletini. Cocktails here are pleasurably potent.

Who needs dessert when there's a dessert cocktail: Wafer Martini (frangelico, campari, banana liquor, pineapple juice).

Paiara Rosso IGT, Puglia, Italy. A small selection of wine is available at reasonable rates by both the bottle and the glass.

Morganfield's @ Pavilion,

Level 4, Pavilion, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2141-3192