Flame

KLGCC recently opened a Western restaurant that exudes old-fashioned elegance and a stately serenity. Don't let the lack of customers perturb you, since the service is sterling.

Celebrity 'Chef in Black' Emmanuel Stroobant is Flame's official menu consultant. The recipes might not be revolutionary or revelatory, but they're sufficiently satisfying.

Chilli-marinated salmon with chives. No worries, this isn't intolerably spicy, and it's not meant to be eaten on its own. Instead, it comes paired with...

... potato blinis & sour cream. Slice up the salmon, scoop some onto a tiny pancake, spread it lavishly with sour cream and pop it into your mouth for a silky, savory burst of flavor.

More rawness ahead: steak tartare with egg yolk, mustard, capers, shallots & herbs.

Mix the hand-chopped raw beef with the other components for a messy mound of marvelous mush. More succulent than a slab of medium-rare steak, for sure.

Wine to sip slowly with this light supper. Flame's last orders are at 10.30 p.m.

Flame Restaurant,

Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club, Off Jalan Bukit Kiara.