Kitchen Art

The main attraction at Empire Hotel's flagship restaurant is its very cool view of Subang and the Federal Highway. From the alfresco terrace, there are no major skyscrapers in sight, but it's still nice to watch the cars stream by.

Inside, it's calm and soothing; there seem to be very few patrons here on weekday evenings, making it the perfect place for a cozy tete-a-tete.

Alas, the menu mostly comprises run-of-the-mill choices; expect the typical Western and Asian main courses that most other hotel coffee houses serve.

There are nevertheless several worthwhile choices, such as the surprisingly hearty salads. This mix of arugula, beef bacon, red onion marmalade, gorgonzola & toasted pine nuts was fresh and flavorful, but perhaps soaked too liberally with vinaigrette.

Crisp, impeccably prepared calamari, with dried longan, shaved parmesan & lemon olive soil vinaigrette. Creative and satisfying enough to recommend.

Cranberry juice, with Marques de Caceras red & white (too acidic for our liking).

Sure, there isn't the usual vista of the Petronas Twin Towers to captivate customers, but as a wise woman once sang, a change (of scene) would do you good.

Kitchen Art Brasserie,

Empire Hotel, Subang.