White Rajah

One of Bukit Bintang's most relaxed restaurants, offering a soothing retreat from the throngs of tourists and shoppers on this street.

Most of the highlights here comprise Borneo cuisine, including favorite recipes of the Foochow community in Sibu, the hometown of this cafe's founder.

Sarawak "kompiah," stuffed with fried shallots. We had mixed feelings about these. Doughy and chewy, but somehow still addictive. Carbs have a vicious hold on us.

Highland Bario rice porridge, with fish & green peppercorn. Tummy-heating and wholesome-tasting; porridge lovers should have no complaints, though we still can't really tell the difference between Bario rice and regular varieties.

Anjau Duck, our favorite of the evening. Basically duck braised in glutinous rice & fermented red rice yeast. Tender meat in an inimitably sweet, aromatic sauce.

Mee Kolo. Not as authentic as the other dishes here, since minced chicken is used instead of pork. Irresistible nevertheless, with a huge heap of juicy, yummy meat.

The salted terubok fish was so tasty, we lapped up every spoonful of the lemak curry. Beware though: there are hundreds of thin, tiny bones in this fleshy fish.

The Sarawak Laksa wasn't quite as successful. Less fragrant and flavorsome than many versions elsewhere (including Alexis').

Green Chicken, a Kalimantan recipe of chicken in green sauce. Skip this one; it tasted precooked and reheated. The gravy was wholly forgettable.

Terra Mater Merlot 2006 (Chile).

White Rajah Borneo Cafe,

Piccolo Galleria, Bintang Walk,

Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.