Madisons @ Bangkung

Replacing Four Seas at Bangsar's Bangkung row, Madisons is the newborn member of the family of restaurants that comprises Opus Bistro, Leonardo's and Cava.

Madisons' menu bears an Australian influence, courtesy of Chef Kelly Delaney, who most recently headed the kitchen at Adelaide's award-winning Auge Italian restaurant.

Auge's menu kicks off with cured meat, so it's fitting that Madisons' does too. There's no resisting the fleshy, free-range chew of the Spanish Iberico lomo and chorizo, both seasoned with a blend of paprika, herbs, garlic and sea salt that complements the pork's nutty sweetness.

Potato gnocchi with candied pancetta, parmesan, white wine, black pepper, pecorino and yolk. Looks like comfort food, sounds like comfort food, so it must be comfort food.

Slow-cooked venison, lightly breaded and served atop carpaccio, garnished with walnut dust, blueberries, shaved green beans and goat's curd. We might prefer this stuffed with crab meat and accompanied by avocado, but that's an entire other recipe.

Pan-seared sea bass with speck ham, broad beans, olive dust, crispy potatoes and chervil oil. The juniper-tinged ham is a tasty touch that sets this apart from other fish preparations.

Sous vide pork belly, laced with aromatic herbs and served with organic de puy lentils. Cooked in a water bath for 24 hours to lock in the juicy, fatty flavor.

Sweet rice pudding, infused with vanilla and honey, topped with fig compote, cinnamon crumble and sherry cream. Madisons' desserts are as ambitiously intricate as its savory courses.

Even the "tiramisu" here offers more complexity than regular ones; it's a "deconstructed" interpretation, with mascarpone ice cream, chocolate earth, coffee pave and savoiardi fingers.

Heartland Stickleback (2009) seemed like an appropriately Australian order for this meal.

Frangelico and Baileys, for a fine finish to a fulfilling feast.

Madisons' prices are what must be expected on this row; a three-course meal without wine will cost north of RM100, including taxes.

The restaurant fits fewer than 50 customers, so be sure to make reservations; we expect a lot of things to be written and said about Madisons in the months ahead.

Madisons Restaurant,
Jalan Bangkung, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2092-1222
Open for lunch and dinner, except Sundays.