Benares

Replacing Bossa Nova at Parkroyal Hotel, Benares might be KL's priciest Indian eatery; the food is fine, with several recipes seldom seen elsewhere, but we're not sure it's all worth the cost.

Complimentary amuse bouche. Some sort of cheesy crackers with a minty sauce.

We love this one: Himalayan Phaal Aur Shrikand _ grapes & assorted fruits with yogurt, cardamom, flaked almonds, pomegranate seeds & Shrikand sauce (RM25++). A perky panoply of fresh-tasting ingredients in tangy strained yogurt.

We can't make ourselves love this one: Goan Tuna Macchli _ tuna cooked with coconut & chili & garnished with coriander (RM40++). Essentially chewy slices of dried-out fish.

We're pleasantly surprised by this one: Tabakh Maaz _ lamb chops braised in saffron milk & ground almonds (RM45++). Succulent boneless meat, with nary a hint of gaminess.

We can't muster excitement for this one: yogurt-marinated tandoori chicken (RM38++). Tender & savory, but not extraordinarily better than mamak versions.

We're stunned by the cost of this one: Bundh Gobhi. Mildly spiced chopped cabbage (RM25++).

We're confused by this one: Sukha Palak (RM28++). Kinda like palak paneer but without cheese. But to give credit where it's due, this is impeccably prepared.

We wish this one would live up to its billing: The menu describes it as "eggs whisked with ground spices, green chili, coriander & seasoning, then fried to perfection" (RM20++). But it's basically a well-executed omelet _ nothing more, nothing less.

We should order briyani instead of this one: Nimbu Chawal (RM20++). Lemon rice, fairly fluffy & fragrant, but less flavorful than briyani.

We'll call it a night with this one: Ras Malai _ cheese in sweet, creamy sauce (RM14++).

We'll be drunk on this one (not!): Baron Philippe De Rothschild Mouton Cadet Rose (RM98++).

Benares,

Parkroyal Hotel, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel: 03-2782-8305