Racks @ Changkat

Stating the obvious: Changkat Bukit Bintang has a nice new set of Racks.

Baby back pork ribs _ slow-braised & glazed with sweet marmalade on the spit for sticky succulence. Among the best in town, absolutely.

Racks is pork paradise from start to end. At some other outlets, pulled pork sandwiches come out as perfunctory creations with bland, stringy meat. Here, it's a hearty heap of slow-cooked Boston butt (pork shoulder), satisfyingly stuffed into a bun with house-made apple-chili jam.

Even the ubiquitous pork burger isn't taken for granted. The tender patty contains a surprise, prepared with bits of oven-baked tomatoes inside for a understated zing. With a look that seems stripped down to the basics, it might be even tastier with toppings of cheese & egg, but those are not truly necessary.

Streaky bacon sarnie, a British favorite. Come to think of it, Racks might be for pork at Changkat what The Magnificent Fish & Chips is for fish on this street. As a bonus, the service team is more than praiseworthy _ warm, welcoming & wonderfully helpful.

Even oysters can't escape the hog here; Pacific mollusks cushioned with Parma ham. Racks' starters are encouragingly inventive: customers can also try buttered asparagus draped with prosciutto, spiced Oxford sausages wrapped in speck & grilled peaches tucked in Parma ham.

Pork crackling with Racks' signature "Torture" spicy sauce. Slightly too hard to bite into; worthwhile for sharing in a large group, but two of us had a tough time finishing this.

Char-grilled gammon with fried eggs, pinto beans & potatoes. Looks like luncheon meat at first, but this cut from a hog's hind legs boasts all the meatiness of a bona fide steak.

How do you like them apples: Racks' apple cocktails are intoxicating. Our favorites would be the Apple Ginger Harvest (brandy, ginger beer, apple juice, fresh lime) & Big Apple Lemonade (bacardi apple rum, amaretto, homemade sours, sprite).

Frozen Apple Daiquiri (bacardi apple rum, monin apple liquor, apples juice) & Apple Booker (bacardi apple rum, dark rum, sprite, apple juice).

Complimentary Macallan 12-Year-Old Single Malt whiskey to send us on our way. Wheeee!

Racks Bar & Baby Backs,

18-1, Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur,

Tel: 03-2110-1550

Last orders for food at midnight weekdays, later weekends.