L. Table

Visiting 1 Utama can make me nostalgic for my younger years, when I often came here to polish off plates of roast chicken & lasagna at Dave's Deli, window-shop during my varsity internship & catch fine films at TGV (Good Will Hunting, Titanic, As Good As It Gets).

The mall's expansion & its current renovation have rendered parts of it unrecognizable, but we braved its maze to check out L. Table, probably the closest thing to fine dining at 1U. Note: the restaurant occupies an unlikely venue, within the confines of Lavender Bakery.

L. Table's menu is commendably ambitious. Try the chilled cucumber soup _ this thick, refreshingly tangy puree boasts a twist at the bowl's center: alcoholic herb jelly, laced with Hendrick's gin for a sensuous floral scent.

Carb alert! Lavender & orange Japanese sweet potatoes, roasted with thyme, rosemary & Himalayan rock salt. Aromatically addictive; L. Table's prices are wallet-friendly _ both the cucumber soup & the potatoes cost RM12++ each.

Black truffle tagliatelle. Smells temptingly fragrant, but tastes kinda like mushroom carbonara. Maybe our palates have been too pampered by Italian outlets elsewhere; all things considered, this pasta is enjoyably creamy but unexceptional. Still, it's only RM35++, so we can't protest.

Miso black cod (RM40++), satisfyingly sweet & succulent. What's intriguing is the accompaniment of organic quinoa (two types: black & pearl), a source of nutty, toasty graininess that nicely complements the fish & makes this recipe more memorable.

Pappardelle with duck stroganoff. Another pasta that's good but not great; everything on this plate is irreproachably prepared, but it lacks something extra to elevate the experience. Nevertheless, for RM22++, this is a cost-effective alternative to a meal at il Lido.

Cocktails seldom sold elsewhere in KL: French 75 (prosecco, gin, lemon juice, sugar) & La Rosette St Germain (elderflower liquor, sparkling wine, strawberry). Both absolutely delicious, at an astonishingly divine price: RM20++.