Ogawa

Ogawa: Round Two. Earlier entry: June 24.

Konnyaku, a plant-based jelly with numerous nicknames _ "devil's tongue," "voodoo lily," "snake palm" and "elephant yam." All those monikers make this sound scarier than it is. High-fiber, low-calorie health food, with a springy firmness.

Karashi mentaiko. Thick slices of marinated pollock roe, deliciously savory.

Going raw the rest of the way: salmon sashimi & sea urchin.

Tuna & squid, tasting irreproachably fresh.

Hirame. Flat fish, valued for its crunchy smoothness _ not its bland taste.

Sake is served, satisfyingly so.

Ogawa Japanese Kitchen,

Plaza Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur.