Wau Penyu

This posh kopitiam presents generations-old favourites from Kelantan and Terengganu.

Keropok Lekor. More fish, less flour; exactly how it's supposed to be.

Ketupat Pantai Timur. Dense, glutinous rice cakes, with a mildly spicy beef floss.

Rojak Betik Terengganu. An acquired taste; we expected something similar to a Thai papaya salad, but the fish gravy in this recipe was a weird match for the papaya strips.

Murtabak Kelantan, stuffed with minced beef. Thick and hearty, with an unexpected fluffiness that elevated it above the regular mamak versions.

Laksam (flat noodles with mixed ulam in fish coconut gravy). Loved the superbly aromatic broth and the super-fresh, extra-crunchy ulam.

Nasi kerabu, with salted fish, fish floss, sambal, crackers, smoked beef & ayam percik. The rice was a bit bland at first bite, but OK when eaten with all the accompaniments.

Nasi Dagang Istana (fragrant rice with tongkol fish, acar, gravy & fish cake stuffed chilli). Loaded with ingredients, but amazingly, it wasn't too heavy. In fact, two of us shared all the dishes in this entry within one evening, but we didn't feel bloated at all.

Sotong rebus kuah hitam (squid in black ink sauce). A rather mild-tasting recipe, with not enough oomph to recommend it unless you're a major fan of squid.

Burung puyuh goreng (deep-fried quail). Tender, well-seasoned meat.

Traditional coffee & Milo Raksasa.

Wau Penyu,

Solaris Dutamas.